Lindos, Rhodes, Greece. Pottery sherds dating from the third millennium indicate Lindos may be the oldest settlement on Rhodes. An easier fetch from Gocek, Turkey (see Flat-Water Sailing Holiday), than the 60 nautical mile distance would suggest, Lindos was in importance first among three equals which combined in 408 BC to build Rhodes Town, that year wielding an eastern maritime dominance and controlling numerous mainland settlements, including both Inlice adjacent to Gocek and Marmaris (see below). A waypoint for Saint Paul's captors in A.D. 60 while hiding from Meltemi winds. Miles of white sand beach behind which the medieval town lies below an ancient acropolis (acropolis stoa pictured at right). In the town several charming if pricey restaurants serving a rather ordinary cuisine.

Rhodes Town, Greece. Twenty-four miles off the wind from Lindos and one hour by air from Athens, Rhodes Town has inadequate facilities for visiting yachts. It is occasionally possible, however, for a yacht to squeeze into a vacant mooring against one of the harbor walls when those moorings have not been blocked by resident bareboat charter companies or by yacht agents in the employ of deep-pocketed others. On these occasions Rhodes Town offers an encompassing view of both ancient and medieval history while its many beaches attract those interested in the sun god Helios (see Greek Gods To Know). The seven-wonders Colossus in the image of Helios is said to have once stood upon the east wall of the smaller of Rhodes Town's three harbors abutting the old city. Within the old city there is ample evidence of the 1306-1522 presence of the Knights of Saint John of Jerusalem (Hospitallers), including the restored palace of the grand master. Also within the walls are numerous archaeological sites gradually bringing to light a history beginning in 408 BC. Findings from these sites are housed in the 1000-bed Hospital of the Knights located on Museum Square. Here the wounded, the injured, and the ill slept between linen sheets, ate off silver plates, and drank from silver goblets while attended by Hospitallers. For dining in a Hospitaller ambience today, try Taverna Ippotikon in the old city. It occupies the 1476 residence of a Hospitaller. Apparently a senior Hospitaller. For better fare including a superb pork barbeque at a more reasonable price try Outa Lapee (formerly Ta Filarakia) inside the Agora. Port of Entry.

Simi, Greece. Twenty-four miles from Rhodes Town, this home of long-gone shipbuilders and sea captains has a special charm in a striking island setting. A climb to its acropolis is a pleasant walk over whitewashed grouting along enchanting 19th century pedestrian ways to an unsurpassed view of the harbor below. At the harbor's edge motor bikes may be rented for excursions to one or more of the island's many beaches and to the monastery at Panormitis. In Simi Town they do more with Greek cuisine than done in Rhodes Town, especially at Meraklis where Anna and Sotiris prepare a superb oven-baked lamb. Port of Entry.

Datca. Eleven miles from Simi Town, Datca is a Port of Entry en route to Knidos. As a matter of fact, Datca was Knidos before Knidos moved around 365 BC to the western tip of the Doric (Datca) Peninsula. With Halicarnassus old Knidos was, according to Herodotus, sponsor of thirty of 1207 triremes accompanying the Persian Xerxes in his 480 BC invasion of what is now mainland Greece. Sixty-eight years later old Knidos dispatched the Spartan fleet of Astyochus to an engagement off Simi with Athenians under Charminus. The resulting rout of the Athenian fleet may have been the beginning of the end for Athens.* Datca is now a resort town significantly improving its image. Evidence of its former self, including acropolis wall, may be found on a headland about one mile north of the harbor. Local cuisine, however, remains mired in the stone age.

Knidos. Sounds Greek (Spartan, according to Herodotus) but is Turkish, a waypoint and weather respite on the way north for Cleopatra and for Saint Paul's captors two thousand years ago, for the Barbarossa brothers and Dragut five hundred years ago, and for the yachting community today. Twenty-two miles from Datca. Ruins running up left and right from the water's edge and down under the sea at the extremity of the south harbor. See the harbor-side stoa (ancient shopping mall) and theater among many other points of interest, and do not miss the Temple of Aphrodite once housing Praxitele's first nude. Great swimming in crystal clear water.

Ova Buku. Twelve miles from Knidos, Ova Buku is a sleepy resort beneath steep slopes close by ancient Triopium. The latter is situated within fortified Archaic-period settlement walls with bastion above the village of Kumyer, the walls still standing to a height of 25-feet. If visiting, take a rope with which to rappel into the largest cistern where amphorae lie about. Also take a metal detector to locate hoarded coins. In Ova Buku the principal attractions are beaches fronting Ogun's Place, while at Ogun's Place the camaraderie is welcoming and the fare superior.

Keci Buku. Twenty-seven miles from Ova Buku (downwind) and fjord-like, Keci Buku is one of the prettier anchorages in Turkey. Good swimming and exploring, including acropolis ruins at Bybassos and temple ruins at Castabus, both parts of ancient Caria. The Carians, it may be noted, were allies of the Trojans, and while Homer said they were barbarous of speech, it had nothing to do with their hospitality.

Bozburun. This charming village eighteen miles from Keci Buku sits at the head of a magnificent natural harbor surrounded in antiquity by a Rhodian deme known as Thymnus. Though the meager evidence of ancient history now gathered in the village square provides no clue, it is likely that as far back as the Hellenistic period between Alexander and Augustus Bozburun as today was a center of shipbuilding activity. The village is otherwise a summer resort distinguished by a wonderful seafood establishment called the Fish Restaurant; reservations are in order.

Loryma. A maritime settlement fourteen miles from Bozburun, the Rhodian fortress here dates from the third century BC while the two acropolei are Chersonese and centuries older. The anchorage during 394 BC harbored the Persian fleet of Conon the Athenian while it prepared to end Sparta's sea supremacy in a battle fought off Datca. Numbering more than 90 triremes, the fleet beached at night along the stretch of sand running from Coban Ali's Restaurant to beyond the lower acropolis. The seafood at Coban Ali's, by the way, can be surprisingly good. And so can be the swimming.

Ciftlik. Fifteen miles east of Loryma, Ciftlik (ancient Phalarus) is a beach village set in a striking mountain cul-de-sac behind Ciftlik Island. While no evidence of ancient Phalarus remains, nor of the argonaut of the same name, there is a pleasant ambience during settled weather.

Kumlu Buku. Ancient Amos five miles NE of Ciftlik. Ruins atop a bluff above the beach, including extensive coursed polygonal walls, inscribed blocks, and an altar to Dionysus (see Greek Gods To Know). On the beach below is a delightful luncheon stop belonging to the Hotel Dionysus, while at the other end of the beach is a restaurant featuring superb Beijing cuisine and unsurpassed ice cream crepes.

Marmaris. Seven miles north of Kumlu Buku, slight remains of ancient Physcus may be found behind the Tansas parking facility near the water front statue of Ataturk. Marmaris is otherwise a bazaar town full of crafty rug merchants, beach tourists, and waterfront restaurants, but featuring fine doner kebap and exquisite pizza. A fortress built in 1522 to house Suleiman The Magnificent while his fleet and armies assembled for the conquest of Rhodes now houses ancient statue torsos, heads, bas-reliefs, column pedestals, stellae, and amphora. Yacht-voyeurism, like Donald's "Marla" (present name unknown) and "Airwaves," one of the megayachts belonging to the Uzan family, beneficiaries of almost three billion dollars in long-overdue advances from Motorola and Nokia. In 480 BC, however, voyeurs watched Artemisia the Elder outfit galleys here for the Persian Xerxes, each about 128' in length and propelled by 170 Carian oarsmen.

Ekincik. Twenty miles east of Marmaris, Ekincik Bay is a pine encircled bit of heaven. And does it have a restaurant! The best full-menu dining on the south coast, situated with a delightful view, the service unimpeachable. And beaches. And a river boat to ancient Caunos. You can read about Caunos in Herodotus's History, a city-state and maritime power until its citizens were dispatched in 545 BC by the Persian Harpagus. There remains nevertheless considerable evidence of the ancient city's revival under Mausolus of Caria and, of course, under the Romans. Dramatic rock tombs further up river near Dalyan and its fresh-water lake.

*The beginning of the end was probably less definite, rather a gradual consequence of hubris attached to empire and unbridled power following defeat of the Persians. Witness Donald Rumsfeld for personification of hubris and unbridled power following defeat of Saddam Hussein. For additional insight on Rumsfeld see the disclaimer at Cruising Alexander's Path.